I read about adding sensitzer to elmers glue and it will work as an emulsion, does anyone know if this works and does it matter what kind of sensitizer you use? Please reply as soon as possible
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Thu, May 3, 2007 - 10:59 AMLloyd, if you're referring to my post on the DIY site, I had been taught to do that by my Prof, who had been working in the industry for 20 years, and yes, it does work marvels.
Ammonium dichromate can be bought under either the Kodak brand, or at your local chemical supply, and while it's been 15 years since I was mixing it daily, I do recall that it's fairly flexible in your proportioning. The more sensitizer you add, the quicker your exposures get, but the more brittle your emulsion becomes. It's pretty painless to mix, no breathing the crystals unless Lung Cancer appeals to you (physical contact is not the killer, it's the inhaled dust). -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Thu, May 3, 2007 - 6:17 PMcan i buy a sensitizer like a diazo and mix it with an emlers glue? or do i have to use ammonium dichromate? Please reply soon -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Thu, May 3, 2007 - 9:11 PMDichromates are the usual sensitizer in all Diazo emulsions, Potassium being the better, but more toxic one. If you can find sensitizer by itself, sure, but it's usually sold with Emulsion, and straight Dichromate is just cheaper (why you'd use it).
I think it was about $16/pound, with the Ulano Dichromate measuring in at 2 tbs. (or 1/3 an ounce?) per quart of Emulsion at $28.00
That's 28 per quart as opposed to 5 quart by mixing it yourself. -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Thu, May 3, 2007 - 11:38 PMLook in the phone book for a chemical supply store, or find a full spectrum photography store (i.e. not like a Wolfe Camera, but an honest to god darkroom supply place).
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Fri, May 4, 2007 - 11:16 AM> Lloyd, if you're referring to my post on the DIY site, I had been taught to
> do that by my Prof, who had been working in the industry for 20 years,
> and yes, it does work marvels.
wow, interesting. im using AdC to sensitize knox gelatin... is white glue easier to work with? i would imagine it would be both easier to apply and dry. right now i have to quickdry an initial coat and reapply a second, both very messy processes, and its a challenge to get them both done before the emulsion cools down (or overheats if im keeping it warm with a hotplate).
the dry gelatin is also a pain in the ass to remove, requires a strong concentration of bleach and a LOT of elbow grease... how easy does the glue reclaim? -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Fri, May 4, 2007 - 12:26 PM"...how easy does the glue reclaim?"
VERY easily. Step 1, grab a razor blade..... :)
I've got the full story on the DIY Screenprinting tribe, but it is waterproof and sovent proof, and was used by my prof when we was doing high volume runs on abrasive substrates. I think it was also used for his Football Jersey jobs. Every team uses the same font, and you only ever have to make 10 screens, once, for a VERY long time... :)
I personally used it to make photographs on anything that would sit still under the sun for long enough... :)
BTW, being that I see a respirator on you pic, I assume you have access to a Spray gun? If it's a Metal closed lid jobber, I think you've got your application problems solved. I used to run it through an Airbrush for prepping paper photo prints (a hell of a lot quicker and more even application than the old Gum Bichromate/Foam Brush technique they teach in alternative photography classes... :)
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Fri, July 27, 2007 - 8:25 PMD. Matthew, I can't find you original post on the DIY site you're talking about. I want to try this too and i'm just trying to catch up on the conversation. Also what's this "reclaiming" of the glue? You have to strip the glue once it's dry with a razor blade? Is elmer's really waterproof? I want my screens to be washable and reusable so this process sounds like a good choice, but basically i'm still looking for some 'step-by-step' direction. -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Mon, July 30, 2007 - 2:04 PMMy apologies, the "razor blade" comment was sheer tongue-in-cheek... :)
Usually people say "reclaim" when it means they want to remove the existing stencil, and burn a new one on the same streched screen. With the Glue-Dichromate, you cannot reclaim the screen, you simply cut it out, and stretch a new piece of mesh.
Yes, you can re-use the same stencil over and over and over again. It works fine for fine details, however bear in mind that delicate linework that is repeatedly washed, sprayed, scrubbed, etc. will eventually break down.
Yes, Elmer's glue is fairly solvent and waterproof. It will soften a hair, but not dissolve. After using some Ulano emulsion last month, I'd be temtped to say they are using a Polyvinyl acetate binder as well (same as Glue).
I don't really have any explicit instructions, as it's fairly flexible, just remember the more sensitizer you add, the more brittle the stencil becomes.
Basically, take a tablespoon of Ammonium dichromate, mix it into a tablespoon of water, mix that into a Dixie cup 3/4 full of Elmer's glue. Now, go and play. Run an exposure test for yourself, and see how long it takes to harden. Play around, adjust your formulation as need be, more dichromate for a faster burn, less for a more durable stencil. There is no wrong, just your needs -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Tue, July 31, 2007 - 12:30 AMall right cool.....got another one for ya......so i want to use this in wide-format pieces and I'm looking for some different ideas for the orinal image, the one you expose it with. What do you call that anyways? I allways wanna say 'stencil' but the finished product's a stencil so that doesn't make sence. Anyways...I really don't want to pay for wide-format vellum printing. I heard you can put mineral oil or vegitable oil on regular printer paper but that sounds sketchy to me. Any ideas? -
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Re: elmers glue and sensitizer
Tue, July 31, 2007 - 9:48 AMIf you're doing a hand-drawn image, I'd say a roll of Mylar and black Cel-Vinyl paint.
You could spend less on Acetate, but Mylar (aka polyester) is dimensionally stable, and won't shrink and distort with temperature, humidity, sheer ennui... :)
Paper and oil will work, but it's bound to be sketchy at best as far as your results, as you're not really making "opaque" and "transparent", more like "translucent" and "more translucent".
Sounds cool, but you're definitely off in the fringes now, and it's sheer luck/determination from there. Trust me, I know... :)
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